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 | Rethymno Downtown car rental - Travel Guide |  |
Since the early 1980s, RÉTHYMNON has seen a greater influx of tourists than perhaps anywhere else on Crete, with the development of a whole series of large hotels extending almost 10km along the beach to the east. For once, though, the middle of town has been spared, so that at its heart Réthymnon remains one of the most beautiful of Crete's major cities (only Haniá is a serious rival) with an enduringly provincial air. A wide sandy beach and palm-lined promenade border a labyrinthine tangle of Venetian and Turkish houses lining streets where ancient minarets lend an exotic air to the skyline. Dominating everything from the west is the superbly preserved outline of the fortress built by the Venetians after a series of pirate raids had devastated the town.
The town
With a beach right in the heart of town, it's tempting not to stir at all from the sands, but Réthymnon repays at least some gentle exploration. For a start, you could try checking out the further reaches of the beach itself. The waters protected by the breakwaters in front of town have their disadvantages - notably crowds and dubious hygiene - but less sheltered sands stretch for miles to the east, crowded at first but progressively less so if you're prepared to walk a bit.
Away from the beach, you don't have far to go for the most atmospheric part of town, immediately behind the inner harbor. Almost anywhere here, you'll find unexpected old buildings, wall fountains, overhanging wooden balconies, heavy, carved doors and rickety shops, many still with local craftsmen sitting out front, gossiping as they ply their trades. Look out especially for the Venetian loggia, which houses a shop selling high quality and expensive reproductions of classical art; the Rimóndi fountain, another of the more elegant Venetian survivals; and the Nerandzés mosque, the best preserved in Réthymnon but currently serving as a music school and closed to the public. When repairs are completed it should again be possible to climb the spiral staircase to the top of the minaret for a stunning view over the town. Simply by walking past these three, you'll have seen many of the liveliest parts of Réthymnon. Ethnikís Andistásis, the street leading straight up from the fountain, is also the town's market area.
The old city ends at the Porta Guora at the top of Ethnikís Andistásis, the only surviving remnant of the city walls. Almost opposite are the quiet and shady public gardens. These are always a soothing place to stroll, and in the latter half of July the Réthymnon Wine Festival is staged here. Though touristy, it's a thoroughly enjoyable event, with spectacular local dancing as the evening progresses and the barrels empty. The entrance fee includes all the wine you can drink, though you'll need to bring your own cup or buy one of the souvenir glasses and carafes on sale outside the gardens. |
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